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Italian Taste Journey - Puglia

italian taste journey Apulia, the heel of Italy With over 800 kilometres of coastline, it’s a territory with a real fishing calling, as well as an agricultural…
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italian taste journey Apulia, the heel of Italy With over 800 kilometres of coastline, it’s a territory with a real fishing calling, as well as an agricultural one: in fact there are over 270,000 farms operating in the region VIESTE IN THE PROVINCE OF FOGGIA By Stefania Lepera Gargano Daunia MARE ADRIATICO FOGGIA Margherita di Savoia ANDRIA Cerignola BARI Parco Nazionale Alta Murgia Toritto Polignano Campania Altamura BRINDISI Gravina Gioia del Colle Salento LECCE Basilicata Manduria TARANTO Galatina Otranto APULIA MAR IONIO Calabria P uglia, or Apulia in English, is the Cereal Research Centre (CRA) which 39% of turnip greens, which are one of Italy’s “boot heel” and the most carries out genetic selection activities. the main ingredients in local recipes. As Southeast region: the agri- Here, at the beginning of the XX century, for fishing, with over 250,000 tonnes food production was over 3 the company Senatore Cappelli was of catch in the Mediterranean, Apulia billion euro in 2017, and despite born, which is the region’s crown jewel contributes to national production by fluctuations between positive and in durum wheat production. Other 13%, and by 15% in value. Aquaculture negative trends throughout the years, relevant crops are cherries, which is highly significant, with the province it is continuously growing. Exports, reached 38% of the national total of Taranto being specialised in shellfish, too. According to data by Coldiretti, in 2017, almonds (33%), asparagus mussels in particular, and the one of fruit and vegetable alone are worth (33%), artichokes (29%), and wine Foggia in fish, particularly in sea bass 845 million euro, with exports for 750 grapes (20%). Apulia also produces and sea bream. million. The leading export destination for Apulia’s fruit and vegetable is AGRICULTURAL CROPS (TONNES) – YEAR 2017 Germany, which imports about 230 million euro worth of production, but Apulia’s production Italy total Apulia is gaining a foothold also in Table grapes 5,546,625 9,332,680 potentially competitor countries, such Wine grapes 13,560,000 64,178,662 as Tunisia and France. In the past year, Olives 9,450,550 27,085,369 exports of agricultural products rose Table tomato (open air) 889,9 5,502,018 by 9%, while fruit and vegetable by 4.9%. Apulia is the first in Italy Industrial tomato (open air) 16,589,000 49,650,854 for table grapes (60% of the Greenhouse tomato 237,3 4,425,615 national total). It also produces Durum wheat 9,038,800 42,127,682 35% of overall olives production, 33% Cherries 453,8 1,182,589 of industrial tomato in open air culture, Almonds 266,39 795,99 of which over 90% comes from the province of Foggia. Cereal crops are Artichokes 1,137,870 3,878,029 also relevant, in particular, durum Asparagus 115,1 342,51 wheat: the region produces 21% of Turnip greens 636,6 1,604,368 the national total. The area hosts Source: ISTAT ITALIANFOOD.NET 2 - 2018 31 italian taste journey CHEESES Industrial cheese production in Apulia status in 2016. It’s a cow milk cheese reached 519,745 tonnes in 2016, 87% of made by a pouch of kneaded curd which is represented by fresh cheeses. A containing stracciatella, a mixture of part of the province of Foggia is involved cream and scraps of stretchy strings. in the production of Mozzarella di Bufala Burrata is sold in different shapes, Campana Pdo, one of the most prestigious sometimes wrapped with a raffia Italian cheeses in terms of volumes and thread, as pictured in the Pgi logo. value, and Ricotta di Bufala Campana Pdo. Apulia shares with other regions the Cacioricotta Furthermore, the Ministry of Agriculture production of Caciocavallo Silano has recently granted the Pdo status to Pdo a semi-hard string cheese. All Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle, a typical made in Apulia – instead – is the Pdo braided or knotted Apulian mozzarella. Canestrato Pugliese, a basket-shaped Burrata di Andria was granted the Pgi (in Italian “canestro”) ovine milk cheese. It’s not a Pdo, but an Apulian speciality nonetheless, the Pallone di Gravina, a perfectly rounded cheese made with local raw cow’s milk in semi-free range houses. Another typical Apulian cheese, but widespread also in other regions, is Cacioricotta. Its production is quite peculiar, as coagulation is caused both by rennet (as in cheese), and by heat (as in Caciocavallo cheese of Apulia ricotta): the result is a firm cheese that can be served fresh or grated. The Ministry of Agriculture has granted the Pdo status to Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle Burrata Canestrato APULIAN WINES Apulia has 32 PDOs among its wines, early ripening, and it is included in with a total production of over 200,000 other Apulian Pdos, such as the Gioia hectoliters in 2015 and 6 Pgis (1 million del Colle, a denomination that was hectoliters). It’s worth mentioning the recently served at the White House. The booming of Puglia Pgi whose production production area of Docg is Castel del rose by 53.5% between 2014 and 2015, Monte, with its Rosso Riserva, the Nero reaching 600,000 hectoliters. One of di Troia Riserva, and the Bombino Nero, the most prestigious Apulian Pdos is all red wines. The last two are named Primitivo di Manduria, with the Docg after their vines respectively, which are version Primitivo di Manduria Dolce indigenous of the region. Another black Naturale, a red-only meditation wine. grape Apulian vine is Negroamaro, one The Primitivo vine is named after its of the oldest in Italy. 32 ITALIANFOOD.NET 2 - 2018 italian taste journey FRUIT & VEGETABLES Apulia produces over half of Italian Other Pdos and Pgis table grapes, and it has exported in the fruit and vegetable them since the XIX century. A sector pertain to recognition was therefore inevitable, smaller areas, reflecting and Uva di Puglia was granted the subregional soil and Pgi status in 2012. There are several climate conditions. varieties of this denomination, white, The Tavoliere delle Puglie is the black, and red, for a total of over second widest Italian lowland, 5,000 tonnes produced in 2015, which includes almost entirely the province of Foggia, and it’s Table grapes and a value of over 2 million euro. mostly dedicated to agriculture, Such a production involves the entire primarily cereals and tomatoes. region, excluding areas above 330 Here is produced Pdo Bella della meters on sea level. Daunia, a table olive of the Bella di Cerignola variety, that can weigh Apulia region up to 30 grams. In the same area produces over it’s also produced the Pgi Cipolla bianca di Margherita, a distinctively half of Italian sweet onion. Tavoliere is bordered table grapes on the east by Gargano, a highland where Pgi Arancia del Gargano (oranges) grows. This citrus ripens from spring to the end of August, far beyond the orange harvesting season. Lentils The Pgi Limone Femminiello del Gargano (lemons) is also available all year round. Another crucial agricultural territory is the subregion of Murge, a highland whose peak goes by the name of Alta Murgia National Park. Here is Altamura, whose typical Pdo bread is named after, as well as the most recent Pgi Limone Femminiello of Gargano Apulian Pgi, the Lenticchia di Altamura (lentils), which was granted the status in 2017. Murge can boast Slow Food awards, such as the Mandorla di Toritto (almonds), Almonds mainly used in confectionary, and Cece nero, a particularly region stretched out towards the black-hued chickpea ecotype. Balkans. Here grows the Pgi Carciofo Always in the Bari area, but towards Brindisino (artichokes), and in the the Adriatic coast, there is another southernmost part, the Pgi Patata Slow Food awarded product, the novella di Galatina (potatoes). Carote di Polignano: several varieties Going back along the Ionic coastline, of carrots, ranging from yellow finally, we find the Pgi Clementine del to dark purple, a real symbol of Golfo di Taranto, whose production biodiversity. Moving south, we reach grew from 130 tonnes in 2014 to 560 Salento, the peninsular part of the tonnes in 2015. Oranges ITALIANFOOD.NET 2 - 2018 33 italian taste journey Orecchiette APULIAN CUISINE Perfectly in line with the principles of the Mediterranean diet, the Apulia cuisine makes large use of cereal, legumes, seasonal vegetables, and fresh fish. Meat is also present: the most traditional recipes include lamb, horse and rabbit meats. The gastronomic landmark of the region Pucce with black olives Pasticciotto is probably the orecchietta, a pasta shape that resembles an ear (in Italian “orecchio”). The Orecchiette with turnip Apulia stands out also for its ahead of its greens is – in fact – the most famous time street food tradition, in particular dish. Orecchiette is also served with for those dishes to be tasted throughout Apulian Ragù sauce (with lamb, pork, the day. Panzerotti, for example, is a and beef meats). Mussels are present semicircular fried pasta dough usually in several recipes, such as the Zuppa di filled with tomato and mozzarella. Who cozze alla tarantina (mussel soup from wants to enjoy a sandwich can order Taranto), or Tiella alla barese, a one- a Puccia, to be filled as you please. course dish with rice. Alternatively, Focaccia barese is typically Tiella alla barese Among baked goods, Pdo Pane di widespread, with cherry tomatoes and Altamura stands out. It is made of olives. Among sweets, one just cannot durum wheat flour – of which at least visit Apulia without tasting Pasticciotto, 80% must be locally produced – and the a boat-shaped pastry filled with cream, rest 20% by other wheat flour varieties, typical of Salento. Apulia does not but always locally produced. This bread currently have any Pdos or Pgis in is produced exclusively in an area within cold cuts and preserved meats, but the Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia Muscisca deserves to be mentioned for (Alta Murgia National Park). However, its uniqueness. It’s strips of dried spicy volumes are considerable, over 440 meat originally eaten by shepherds tonnes in 2016. during transhumance. Mussel soup ‘alla tarantina’ Volumes of Pane di Altamura Pdo are considerable, over 440 tonnes in 2016 On the left, frisella and focaccia barese here above 34 ITALIANFOOD.NET 2 - 2018 TRULLO AND MASSERIA There are there were many, while today houses of both the landowner and two types of only a few are well preserved. the workers, as well as stables constructions The most famous ones are in and warehouses. Many of them linked to agricultural the town of Alberobello, a UNESCO have been renovated and serve and pastoral activities in Apulia: World Heritage. Masseria was, as accommodation facilities, trullo and masseria. Trullo is a small instead, a large farm complex restaurants, bed & breakfast construction, with a typical conical where land barons would settle. or SPAs. Many are still active in roof, mostly used as temporary Widespread across the South- agricultural production, frequently shelter or home to agricultural Central, but mostly in Apulia, organic. The word Masseria can also labourers. Until a few decades ago, Masseria would include the mean farm. The surface dedicated APULIA, ITALY’S GRANARY BARN to organic production in 2016 was 255,831 The sector of baked goods helped kick off of the starch and pasta is the one affecting the Apulia’s hectares (+41.4% vs 2016) food and beverage industry industries, mainly in the provinces of Bari and Foggia. Durum wheat the most, with a myriad of artisanal produced in Apulia does not fully companies and a few large ones cover demand by food companies in APULIA’S ORGANIC producing bread, taralli, sweets the region, but it’s an added value for and bread substitutes. medium-high end products, such as Apulia is one of the Italian This territory’s cereal calling has the Pane di Altamura Pdo. regions with the highest incidence of organic agriculture: according to data by Sinab, the surface dedicated to this type of production in 2016 was 255,831 hectares, with a growth of 41.4% compared to the previous year. In the same amount of time, the number of operators rose by 50%, which clearly states a growing interest in the business. Bari is the first province for certified companies (over 2,700 in December 2017). Apulia is the first in Italy in the production of organic olives (32%), vegetables (24%), cereals (20%), and fruit (18%). Overall, Sicily, Apulia and Calabria – the far South of the country – hold 46% of the organic surface nationwide. 36 ITALIANFOOD.NET 2 - 2018 ITALIANFOOD.NET for ANDRIANI INNOVATION AND SUSTAINABILITY ACCORDING TO ANDRIANI As a specialist in the production of organic and gluten- free pasta and the leader in the innovation food sector, the manufacturer stands out for its recipes and virtuous projects A s the key factor in differentiating itself in the BUZZWORD: INNOVATION Andriani has been involved market, innovation is the in a project of a sustainable driving force behind Andriani, the Italian supply chain dedicated Apulia-based leading company in to legumes with the creation the organic and gluten-free premium of an all-Italian controlled supply chain. The initiative, sector, which has successfully applied The team it has created together with this concept on several fronts, such Horta Srl, a spin-off of the as processes, products, and resources. Università Cattolica del Starting from the Gravina plant in Sacro Cuore of Milan, aims at safeguarding the soil and the Puglia, which is exclusively dedicated environment, food safety and to gluten-free foods and equipped with increasing productivity of the 4 production lines and 10 packaging Andriani has been various players in the supply lines, where over 40 different involved in a project chain. The project also makes use of IT tools to support formulations, equalling a total of 80 of a sustainable Italian decisions such as legumi.net® million units, are produced annually. supply chain dedicated and yousustain.net®. These Another strong point is the variety to legumes with the creation efforts have certainly not of recipes and formats of its Felicia gone unnoticed, so much so of an all-Italian controlled brand, constituting the largest range of that they have been crowned gluten-free and organic pasta available supply chain with numerous awards, such as the “Smau Napoli” in 2016, in the market, with naturally gluten- which was bestowed for the free ingredients, such as maize, brown information of the processes rice, buckwheat, quinoa, amaranth, strategy of presiding over the category involved in packaging and peas, and lentils. The latest launch by constantly creating new recipes. storing of products, the “Company to watch”, assigned of the brand are the fusilli made with Felicia products are on the shelves of by Cerved, for its distinction 100% organic chickpea flour of the the main retail players, in specialised in the gluten-free foods legumes line, thus making the pasta rich shops, and in pharmacies in over 30 sector, both for its economic- in proteins and fibres. It confirms the countries worldwide. And recently financial performance and for running the business, “Save some of Felicia’s articles, including red the Brand”, for its excellent lentil fusilli and buckwheat penne, economic and financial have also started to be distributed to the performance, its brand famous Spanish company Mercadona. portfolio and its positioning in the innovation food sector. Just recently Andriani Spa EXPORT CONTACT has been included in the elite programme “Borsa Italiana”, which is an international Francesco Andriani platform of integrated services Job title: CMO created to support companies +39.080.3255801 in the realisation of their growth projects. f.andriani@andrianispa.com The range of pasta Felicia for Mercadona ITALIANFOOD.NET 2 - 2018 37 italian taste journey EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Apulia is the first region in Italy evaluation. This Pgi status aims at valuing for cultivated land dedicated to the region’s variety (over 50 types), and olive growing. With over 370,000 the features of an oil rich in polyphenol, hectares, more than 30% of the the antioxidants that the plants produce national total, it contributes for in response to environmental conditions. about 35% to the Italian total, with It’s such environmental conditions, the an average production of 10 million warm and dry climate, with rains during tonnes. It’s, therefore, the first region colder months, and the quality of soils for oil production, and the second one to determine the extraordinary quality of – after Sicily – for table olives (18,000 Apulia’s extra virgin olive oil. tonnes in 2016). The request to grant Pgi Pending grant of the Pgi status over the status to Olio di Puglia is currently under entire territory, there are already many Pdos in smaller areas. Among them, the most relevant for volumes and turnover TARALLI, THE STANDOUT is Pdo Terra di Bari, the first in Italy with SNACK OF APULIA a production of over 3,000 tonnes (more than 35% of Pdo oil produced in Italy). Apulia also excels in bread succession alone—like well-dressed This makes Bari the first Italian province substitutes production: first and popcorn or really good potato with the highest economic impact foremost Tarallini, or Tarallucci. With chips—or at the very most alongside regarding extra virgin olive oil, with 19.4 its distinctive ring shape, Tarallini has a salty cured meat or with a glass million euro (the second one is Imperia boomed in the past few years, from of red. Having originated in Puglia— with 3.9 million euro). Pdo Terra di Bari large-scale distributors to vending the “heel” of Italy, home to over 60 is also the most exported Italian olive machines. Taralli are no mere crackers. million olive trees, some thousands oil (over 2,500 tonnes in 2015), despite Unlike the plebeian saltine or oyster, a of years old—the very best savory being the second – after Toscano Pdo – tarallo is not a flavorless wafer, a flimsy taralli taste of little more than good in terms of export value. Among other garnish, or simply a subordinate vehicle olive oil, lots of salt, and often either Apulian Pdos, only Dauno goes over 280 for more delicious things. It’s a hearty, fragrant fennel seed or coarsely tonnes. Collina di Brindisi and Terra ground black pepper, the two most d’Otranto fluctuate between 30 and 70 olive-oil-soaked, wreath-shaped treat tonnes, depending on the year, whereas that is meant to be eaten in delirious classic flavors. Terre Tarantine goes a little over a tonne. They are small productions if taken individually, but as a whole, they enhance their territory. As a matter of fact, no area of the region cannot boast a Pdo olive oil. 38 ITALIANFOOD.NET 2 - 2018 ITALIANFOOD.NET for FIOR DI PUGLIA FIORE DI PUGLIA BAKERY GOODS FROM PUGLIA The company is betting on the specialties of the Italian tradition: special attention on raw materials and its variety of offerings W ith an eye on the future year in a row,” declares the company, and a respect for tradition. “we have registered an increase in This is the philosophy our turnover, now equaling 8 million that guides Fiore di Puglia, the Corato euro, 25% of which has been obtained company in North of Bari (Apulia) internationally from the markets in the that has been producing high quality United States, China, Japan and eastern baked goods with local raw materials European countries.” In time, the for over 25 years. The company today company, already a leader in the taralli is led by sole director Giuseppe Fiore segment, has increased its production and his four children. They produce capabilities which now include 2 specialties that include taralli and all of production sites for a total of 12,000 its numerous seasoned varieties, friselle, square meters and 60 employees. biscuits and dried pasta. “For the second Their daily production capability is 100 tonnes of taralli, 10 tonnes of friselle, 15 tonnes of dried baked goods, and 25 ultimate local product but also because tonnes of dried pasta. t
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